Drybag DIY

How to Sew a Dry Bag – DIY

There’s probably no more practical gear for packing on wet adventures than a dry bag. Kayakers and cavers simply can’t do without them. As the name suggests, dry bags primarily protect your gear from moisture. Another big advantage is their compression capability, thanks to the roll-top closure.

In our version, the bag is made from the most durable material in its weight category on the market – the queen of Dyneema. One more benefit: thanks to the fiber’s transparency, you can easily see what’s packed inside.

You can find a DIY dry bag kit with all the accessories in our store.

Required Materials:

Step 1 – Cutting the Material

Cut a square of the appropriate size for your needs — here, 43 × 43 cm. Make sure to leave the factory-finished edge without Dyneema (about 1 cm along the edge).

Step 2 – Sewing the Edges

Fold the fabric in half and sew along the longer side. Position the presser foot along the edge and slowly guide it evenly all the way to the end. Remember to backstitch about 1 cm at the beginning and end of the seam to secure it. To prevent the fabric from slipping, you can use sewing clips, unclipping them gradually as you move the presser foot.

Now, sew the shorter side (the bottom of the dry bag). Just like with the previous side, use the width of the presser foot to guide a straight stitch along the edge of the fabric.

Step 3 – Sealing the Seams

Cut two pieces of seam tape, slightly longer than the sides of your dry bag (so the ends can be folded over the edges).
Place the dry bag with the seam in the center and seal it with the tape (as shown in the photo).

Step 4 – Attaching the Stiffening Tape

Cut a piece of the stiffer tape to match the width of your dry bag.

Place it along the top edge and secure it with pins or clips. Sew a straight stitch down the center of the tape. Then, fold the edge of the dry bag around the tape twice (see photo) and sew again, this time along the edge.

Step 5 – Attaching the Buckle Closure

Cut a piece of grosgrain tape to match the width of the dry bag, leaving a bit of extra length to thread through the buckle — in our case, about +3 cm. Sew it through several times, positioning the presser foot as close to the buckle as possible.

Next, slowly sew it to the edge of the dry bag (the side without the stiffening tape), being careful not to sew through both layers of fabric.
Done! Now you can pack, cinch, and roll it up.

Here’s how our tests looked with the down liner and down jacket: